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Q: What weight rider can this hood support when doing freestyle tricks
and the riders weight is on the hood without cracking?
A: We build each hood to spec for each customer. In other words, we can
sacrifice a small amount of extra weight for more strength and vice-versa. Please always advise us in advance of ordering.
Q: Does this kit use the stock handle pole bracket?
A: No- you must run our lowered bracket to effectively benefit from the system. also the lowered cover will not fit with the factory bracket.
Q: What do you charge to paint the hood (with hand holds installed) and
nose piece solid blue (same color as 2000 Superjets)?
A: Figure on an additional 275.00-500.00 (depends on any "creative" options you may choose that we offer-
EMAIL for details)
Q: What type cushion system does the hood use between the hood and
handle pole?
A: You have the option of Jettrim or Hydro-Turf hood protectors. We stock all models and colors.
Q: What style of aluminum handle poles do you recommend?
A: We have in stock standard length, and shortened AC poles for the 95 older
SJ, 96 newer SJ, FX1, and 750 Kawi for $424.50. We also stock the Rick Roy model for the newer SJ's $489.00plus shipping. There has been a recent AC price increase, so be aware that this is their current price.
If you would like us to spray your AC pole a custom color (candy blue?), figure on an additional $75.00 -150.00 for epoxy primer, basecoat
color(s) and urethane clearcoat.
You also have "Blowsion Only" option of candy chroming your AC pole- for more info check out:
http://www.blowsion.com/pages/products/ACpoles.asp
Q: What are my handle pole Pole Bracket Options for the 96 newer SJ ?
A: We have in stock the UMI billet handlepole bracket for 235.00 plus shipping. This
is a direct replacement for your factory piece. http://www.blowsion.com/pages/products/billet.asp
Or,
You have the choice of our lowered Blowsion Billet bracket, which is the ideal choice of racers and
freestylers. It lowers the height of your handle pole approximately 1" and will fit w/ the stock hood. They sell for 254.00 plus shipping.
http://www.blowsion.com/pages/products/loweredsjbillet.asp
Q: I was
wondering if the black bumper that runs around the watercraft is
painted on or not.
A: We usually do not paint the side moldings. They are made
of an injection molded plastic that has a multitude of
mold-releases in it, which is very hard to adhere paint to w/ any
guarantee of durability. What we usually do is remove them and replace them w/ aftermarket
chrome, gold or colored moldings.
You
can check out our selections for examples. Year, Model, and
Application determines price and availability. There are also occasions were an earlier or later model of the
same manufacturer (Yamaha, Sea-Doo etc..) may have a different
color that will fit. Once again, Year, Model, and application
determines price and availability. Also
check out a paint project breakdown so you have an idea of what we
do during the paint process.
Q: Should I have the bottom of my PWC Hull
trued? It is scratched pretty heavily.
A: Keep in
mind, that unless you have more than just cosmetic scratches and
damage, (ie; stuctural cracks, delamination , taking on water,
etc..), you may be spending unnecessary $$$$. It is very common to
have a "scratched" bottom on a sitdown,(or stand-up) PWC.
In fact for racing purposes, the more scratches the better. The
customers we spend the time truing their hull bottoms are looking
for that last "edge" for their high dollar race boats.
If this fits your profile, we will be glad to help you out.
Otherwise, we have to be honest and simply compare it to the trunk
of your car-
"does anybody really care if it is a mess ? "
Bottom refinishing w/ graphics and/or hull truing can range in
price from $250.00
on up to 600.00-700.00 for the wild stuff.
Q: I will need to either paint or replace
that soft rubber nose piece on the front of my ski. That is too
soft to be painted though, isn't it? I've heard that getting an
OEM black one for a '98+ ski through the dealer is ridiculously
expensive. Any ideas?
A: Here are a few pics of ideas and moldings we
stock that should be what you are looking for. Sample1,
Sample2, Sample3
Q: I have a Kawasaki 750 SXI that I just painted.
I wanted to buy the Chrome molding for it. I wanted to know
how you apply it. Is it ok to put on right after I paint it?
What widths do you have in it? How sturdy is it? What is it
made of? Thanks for you time.
A:
Our chrome moldings attach w/
double sided tape that comes attached on the backside.
They adhere only to the outside edge, they DO NOT go under, or
over, the lip of the bond line like the factory purple trim. We
usually apply them after the paint has cured a day or two. They
are very easy to install- takes about 5 minutes.
We have
found that for the cost this is a killer alternative to those
piece of junk purple factory pieces that always turn white.
Durability is excellent, as they are made out of a injection
molded flexible urethane.
The
chrome is available for the 750 as 2 options:
-in solid chrome 5/8 " width for $35.00 (standard) per ski
length.
-in solid chrome w/ black edge 1 1/8" for $49.50 (heavy duty)
per ski length.
Here are
a few sample pictures to look at: Sample
1, Sample
2, Sample
3, Sample
4, Sample
5
Q: Recommendations for an aftermarket handle pole
spring or tensioner kit to make the handle pole feel lighter for
an FX-1? I keep getting directed by shops to buy an
aftermarket handlepole spring for a '96 Superjet.
A: Believe
it or not, the handlepole and pole bracket for the FX and 96
or newer SJ are identical except for the area where your steering
plate mounts- ths SJ has a longer mounting surface area. We sell
the UMI spring and have made them work in either model. We have
found that "creatively" bending the spring where it
inserts into the hole on the pole bracket makes it fit better. It
is definitely a two person / two beer job !!
YA-05010-SS....$25.00 Pre'96 Superjets
YA-05015-SS....$25.00 '96 and up Superjets and all FX1's
JS-05000-SS....$12.30 All 750SX, SXI, and all years
shipping extra.
Q: Does the 96 and newer superjet need the
sidehull mod. have the sides been cracking? I have cracked the
older superjets on the sides, my new ski is a 1999 superjet.
A: The 95 and older SJ had a top deck that is constructed of an
injection molded plastic
called Metton. The lower deck is made of SMC (sheet molded
compound). The two dissimilar construction materials made for
problems w/ cracking and the need for reinforcement.
The 96 and newer SJ's are very stout, w/ a
hand laid fiberglass top deck, however, we recommend reinforcing
the interior sidehull if you are an aggressive freestyler or ocean
rider. Handlepole limiting ropes are also a must. We have
available a spec sheet we supply our customers w/ that are
installing any of our footwells, one way valve kits , fiberglass
mods, etc.... it may help you.
Q: I'm in need of a paint job on both of my 96'
GTS Sea Doos. Am I right in understanding that all I need is just
good quality automotive paint like a DuPont imron or something to
that effect? What should I expect to pay for labor and paint to
shoot a 3 seater in California?
A:
Tough Question-
As far as paint material usage, stick w/ any of the basecoat/clearcoat
urethane systems offered by PPG, Dupont, Glasurit etc.. if you
want to do a "professional looking" job yourself.
However, we always tell first-timers "practice on your
buddy's boat first".
Prices in
most of California are much higher than most markets due to the
strict "green / environmental laws" that all registered
shops have to adhere to. You are looking at probably $1500.00 -
3000.00 for a complete job from any reputable shop.....less if you
can find someone working out of their garage that hasn't been
caught by OSHA or the EPA yet....then again, you never know if
those "sketchy" painters will be around in the morning
(along w/ your 'Doos ?).
http://www.blowsion.com/pages/skis/
Q: Hi, can you tell me some info on the glassed
in lifters, & also the
handholds for a 96 SJ. I'm in the UK & no-one over here knows
zip!!.
A:
The hand holds are a drop in
"do it your self" kit w/ all instructions, templates and
2 part adhesive included- (available
also for old and 96 newer SJ's, Kawi 750s and soon for the
FX1,.) They are flanged and contoured to cover the hole that you
will drill in your hood-- they are TRICK !!
http://www.blowsion.com/pages/products/handholds.asp
Retail
price for a set (one for each side of the hood) is 139.00 plus
shipping
. They are available in a paintable urethane white, or a custom
color of your choice for an extra $20.00- 40.00.
The
footwell lifters are provided w/ template for marking and cutting,
along w/ the most EXPLICIT directions we can offer. You will need
a cut off wheel and other grinding tools to prepare the sides of
your tray area for installing them. They are flanged around
the edge so you can adhere them easily to your tray walls. We can
also provide bonding materials, if needed, or if you
have limited access to a quality fiberglass supply store in your
area.
Q: I have heard that '96 + SJ can be modified to
handle very similar to the older square nose SJ. What do you
offer to make this true?
A: We offer a true billet lowered bracket http://www.blowsion.com/pages/products/loweredsjbillet.asp
along w/ our lowered hood and front cover to make your 96 or newer
Super Jet into a race/freestyle machine. All these pieces are
available as a kit, or priced separately.
We have designed the the kit around our
Blowsion Sponsored #3 in the World Pro Freestyler Jeff Dawson ,
who won Rookie of The Year and was 4th on the IJSBA National Tour
in 99. We have continually updated pictures, prices and info. on
our website at:
http://www.blowsion.com/pages/products/dawsonkit.asp
(catalog available via mail)
Q: How much will it cost me for a cool black
and white, or preferably, gray and white Jettrim handlepole pad
for my ski? My local upholstery shop said they can make me a
custom one for $65-70.
A: We can
get a 2 color cover for you from Jettrim
for 25.00-30.00 plus shipping. However, we suggest we send your
complete chin piece to Jettrim
and have them modify & recover it. This involves trimming and
re-foaming which will stop it from holding water and also lighten
it considerably. This is almost a 'must do' for any of our
customers. With trimming, it will keep your bars from wearing into
the pad from abuse etc.. The pad loses about 1-2" all the way
around, yet still protects you from face plants. Price:
65.00-75.00 plus shipping there and back. We also stock color
samples of all their vinyls and 'nada-hydes' for your choosing.
Sample1
Q: After I get
the thing stripped of decals and de-purpleized, (all white with
black trim) here is what I'm thinking: A semi-simple black, white,
shades of gray "dress up" paint job. That is, leaving
the base white and painting something on portions of the ski and /
or handlepole without tearing the ski apart. I know your company
is about kolors, but I like the white, black, gray look.
A: After
using all these "wild colors" over the years, some of
our favorite designs involve what we call neutral colors. (silver,
gray, black, white etc........) Here's a couple of dress-up jobs
that aren't necessarily our favorites, but give some ideas. They
all use gray/black accents over the factory finish. Price range :
$400.00 - 900.00. Sample1,
Sample2, Sample3
Q: I want to
see how much $ would be involved in customizing the nose of my ski
a bit. I'm thinking of that picture you had of the SuperJet with
the cut-down faring on the nose that showed off about half of the
handlepole bracket. Didn't you tell me that you did that without
cutting down the hood?
A: We build
all the pieces required to "sanitize the nose" while
either keeping the stock hood , or buying one of our lowered hoods
and lowered freestyle billet brackets.(more $$$) Call us for
pricing and availability. (You would definitely want this done
BEFORE any paint work has begun.)
Q: Just saw
that you offered those one way valves for $$ but install for a lot
more...what all is involved in installing the valve, and is it the
same as the 'duckbill valves' I think they're called?
A: Our one
way valve kits are similar in concept to the "duck bill"
system. A much more labor intensive operation than a bilge kit,
installing the one way valve kit requires that a hole be bored in
the left rear corner of the engine compartment and also at the
rear of the ski, just below the bond line. The foam inside the ski
between these two holes must be cored out so the water bypass
piping can be installed. The one way valve resides inside the hull
and does not protrude like the "duck bill' system. We have
developed special fittings and end caps for our kit to make
installation a bit more 'fool-proof' for people who are not
familiar with fiberglass and resin systems. Using all the
components in our kit only requires that you cut the holes as
previously described and secure the parts with an epoxy product
and that's it. If you are familiar with fiberglass work, some
components of the kit can be discarded and a custom installation
can be completed which results in a more flush appearance as you
may have seen in the pictures on this website. If you tend to take
on large volumes of water while riding, the one way valve kit
can't be beat for drainage.
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