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Q:
Does it matter if my helmet isn't new, (chipped and scratched w/
road or brush rash), or has a color other than white as a factory
base ??
A: No,
everything we apply our coatings to, (including the neighbors
cat), receives a base primer coating of catalyzed epoxy after
prep-sanding - we DO NOT scuff and shoot our graphics over the
"cured" factory finish. This is a common approach w/ low
budget hack paint shops looking to cut corners. The epoxy primer
we use is the most crucial part of our paint process- it is
literally the glue that hold our ensuing graphics and multiple
clear coats together.
Q: How do you
prepare a Seadoo to airbrush it? I just want to airbrush my
numbers on the side of it, instead of the sticker numbers. And
what kind of paint would you suggest I use?
A: There are
a number of ways. The best way is to scuff the whole area
on the front where you area placing them, spray them, then
clearcoat the entire scuffed area to protect them. You can just
cut your letters in mask (frisket, tape, etc.), scuff just the
exposed space, then spray your color and clear, however, the paint
edge around each letter will be HUGE- along w/ being susceptible
to gasoline, water damage, wax etc...
Attached is a couple of airbrushed samples over the factory
finish, w/ a full area clearcoat to protect them. As far as paint
to use, go w/ an automotive basecoat/clearcoat system.
We suggest to help you on your quest for answers, make friends
w/ your local automotive paint salesman or body shop painter and
offer to help out for some free advice.... You can also check out
these four websites for some detailed painting info over the net.
http://www.houseofkolor.com
http://www.dupont.com/coatings
http://www.ppg.com
and
http://www.airbrushaction.com
there are some very good magazines available also, "Airbrush
Action" and "Truckin' " are a good start......
Q: What is,
what you guys call, "flow coating" of the paint work?
A: Unlike
single stage, or one color paint work, the graphic creations you
see on our web pages have multiple layers of colors and artwork.
To properly "bury" all those nasty paint edges (and keep
you from cutting your hand on your helmet graphics), we apply
three to four coats of high solids catalyzed urethane clear, let
it cure, sand smooth- then follow AGAIN w/ three to four more
coats. (sometimes even more for those ultra-obsessive microscope
carrying customers !! ) The result is more material usage, which
means more $$ into the paint job, but we have learned that the
results more than pay for themselves ! (i.e.; extreme durability,
incredible "bowling ball smooth" finish, easy buffing,
repair, and touch -up) .Flow coating also allows us to put all
airbrush accents and brushed-on pinstriping under the clearcoats
for maximum protection and longevity.
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